Category Archives: France

Retour en France

Avenue Victor Hugo, in the posh 16th arrondissement
The posh 16th arrondissement, where we are NOT staying, but where we visited the Musée Marmottan Monet. No photos allowed inside the museum.

We made it to France with no major issues, although it was a bit touch and go with passport control in Reyjavik, Iceland, where the agent seemed to think we should have had a long-stay visa. I convinced him that the French consulate had told me I could travel without one for this trip, which is true, but the email about it was a bit ambiguously worded, so I wasn’t exactly positive. Finally, he let us pass.  I was tormented for the next five hours, before, during and immediately after the flight to Paris, thinking someone in Paris would not let us stay in France, only to find when we arrived in Paris, there was absolutely zero interest in us or our passports, with or without long-stay visas. We just got our bags and walked out to the taxi stand.  Woohoo! There went five hours of wasted stress. There must be a lesson in that.

Apartment in Montmartre
Apartment in Montmartre

Before heading off on our Le Boat adventure on the river Charente, we’re staying three nights in a tiny studio apartment in Montmartre. The front door is on the left of the landing just below rue des Trois Freres (at the top). And, yes, it does look a bit better in . . . er. . . low light. We are directly across the street from the cute little epicerie* that was in the movie Amelie:

L'Epicerie d'Amelie
L’Epicerie d’Amelie

Consequently, there are hordes of camera-bearing tourists traipsing past our door at all hours and blocking the top of the stairs, but it is rather picturesque, non? It sells pretty much everything, including my favorite beurre aux cristaux de sel de mer Noirmoutiers, the most amazing butter on the planet–I’m not even exaggerating–with sea salt crystals in it.

Down the hill from the apartment–everything in Montmartre is up or down a hill–there is a boulangerie called Coquelicot that sells a delicious baguette called la picola. Yum. Seriously. YUM.

And just up rue des Trois Frères, there is this:

IMG_4981

Where I had this for lunch yesterday:

IMG_4976

Fortunately, with all this delicious food, we’re back to walking non-stop.

Espace Dali
Salvador Dali

On one of our walks we happened into a small gallery yesterday that included some works of Salvador Dali, and after talking a while with one of the team at the Galerie Montmartre, she gave us a pass for free admission to the Dali museum, where we saw things like this (left and below):

Espace Dali
Salvador Dali

So here we are, where things are very different from peaceful, quirky, green Vermont and family-filled, lake-side New Hampshire. Yet it’s also familiar, since we’ve been to Paris and Montmartre several times before.

David and I wonder about how being nomads, even temporary nomads, may be changing us. Are we becoming more accepting of all the differences we encounter? Maybe sometimes. So that’s a change for the better, but sometimes I think I’m grumpier when each home base is more “base”–as in, one foot on and ready to run–than “home.” NOT an improvement. But really, how much can we ourselves perceive of how we have changed or are changing?

And of course we wonder which changes will last. The good ones, it is to be profoundly hoped, for all our sakes, but only time will tell.

Since clearly I don’t know that much about change, I’ll leave you with some wise words from those who do:

If you don’t like something, change it. If you can’t change it, change your attitude. ∼Maya Angelou

Progress is impossible without change, and those who cannot change their minds cannot change anything.∼George Bernard Shaw

If you do not change direction, you may end up where you are heading. ∼Lao Tzu

God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference. ∼Reinhold Niebuhr

Home Sweet . . . Garage?

We made it to Boston late on Saturday, the 5th of July and then up to Lake Sunapee on the 6th, so we really are home, sweet home, in a way. Just in time for this:

Fireworks over Lake Sunapee -- July 6th
Fireworks over Lake Sunapee — July 6th

This place has been a treasured home base for David’s far-flung family for many years. But before I switch gears to the New England summer, I have to show you where we spent the last three nights in almost-Paris.

You know when real estate people talk about location, location, location? You should probably listen. And if your first thought about lodging is “how fun and quirky”? Rethink your choice, especially if you also think “too bad about the location.” It’s time to back away from the computer. Really.

So here’s how “fun and quirky” this place was:

 

David was at my mercy, since I had made all the arrangements. Oops. Sorry.

So if we had had pre-schoolers along, maybe,  but there was the added bonus of the sketchy neighborhood, which required bars on the windows and combination-code-operated bolted entryway.  I started getting claustrophobic as soon as I realized in a fire, electrical systems have a tendancy to fail, so how would we get out? Yikes.

Other than that, though, it was an excellent experience in seeing the more multi-cultural side of living in Paris–or really almost-Paris, since we were just on the other side of the périphérique in Saint-Ouen, where they have massive street flea-markets with every possible kind of dusty old castoff you’ve ever seen.

So although I won’t book that apartment again, and I cannot recommend it to you, we’re actually sort of glad we did.

Hard Drive Crash!

Well, excellent timing, I guess, since we’ll be back in the states later tonight, if all goes well. But my computer is temporarily toast — or en panne, as they say here.

So no photo software at the moment. I hope I’ll be able to pull it off yet, since I really wanted to show you photos of the crazy apartment we rented in “sort of” Paris. It’s actually just on the other side of le périphérique from Montmartre, in Saint Ouen, where all the flea markets are. So we’re still walking everywhere, including all the way to the Rodin museum on Thursday, near the Eiffel Tower, though I admit we caught the Metro on the way back.

But now it’s time to pack up and leave France for a while. We’re headed here:

Sunset on Lake Sunapee
Sunset on Lake Sunapee
Lake Sunapee, New Hampshire
Lake Sunapee, New Hampshire

But first we have to make a connection in London. Last time I came home from Paris through London, a weather delay caused me to miss my connecting flight, and spend five hours — yes FIVE HOURS — in line waiting to be rescheduled. And today it’s raining. Just saying.

So please wish us traveling mercies. And if we do end up in interminable queues, wish us charming companions while we wait, like I met last time.

And for all of you already stateside, have a safe and happy 4th of July!

Touring and Tasting: Loire Valley

We’ve been here in Tours since Saturday afternoon, but the time has flown by. Tours is beautiful, with many VERY old and noteworthy buildings, including a magnificent cathedral:

Cathédrale Saint-Gatien de Tours -- Detail
Cathédrale Saint-Gatien de Tours — Detail of Front

But Tours is also in the heart of the Loire valley, which is absolutely encrusted with châteaux and blanketed with vineyards, two of my very favorite things.

Random gorgeous château in the distance
Random gorgeous château in the distance
Vouvray Wine Tour
Vouvray Wine Tour

Yesterday (Monday) I met up with friends, Dany and Francis, who took me to Vouvray for a tour of les caves and some wine-tasting. David stayed back to relax a bit and give me a chance to speak French without the need to translate for him. Since we went early in the afternoon we had a private tour (in French with the occasional English translation for wine-making terms I didn’t know). Les caves were carved out of the limestone cliffs, so double-bonus: beautiful châteaux and other buildings, plus dark, cool space to make wine! 

Today David came along to Chinon for another cave tour and tasting (also turned out to be private, since we were so early — 10 a.m. this time. Rise and shine people! There’s wine to be tasted.)

Château de Chinon
Château de Chinon

The area, including the château was under English control for a while, but the woman giving us the Chinon wine tour said, “Heureusement, Jeanne d’Arc est arrivée . . . ” (Fortunately Joan of Arc arrived . . .) “sinon nous boirions du thé et mangions de la viande bouillie!” ( otherwise, we would be drinking tea and eating boiled meat!)

Restaurant Les Grottes, Azay-le-Rideau
Restaurant Les Grottes, Azay-le-Rideau

Then to lunch here (where neither tea nor boiled meat was offered). Super cute à l’intérieur but it was such a gorgeous day we chose to eat à l’extérieur. 

Then a walk around town to peak at another château and take more photos.

Une maison sur l'Indre
Une maison sur l’Indre — House on  the Indre River

Another fabulous day with friends. 

Dany (left) et Francis
Dany (left) et Francis

Merci beaucoup, Dany et Francis!